Linda Bladholm 5/8/2012
Cane a Sucre, a Design District favorite done in six years ago by road construction and rent hikes, has been reborn as a gourmet sandwich bar in North Miami. Its new incarnation opened four months ago offering affordable sandwiches and burgers on ciabatta bread or brioche buns, salads and desserts in the spruced up Burritos Grill space a block from North Miami’s Museum of Modern Art.
The proprietors are brothers Michael and Sinuhe Vega. Born in Havana, they arrived in Miami as children during the Mariel boatlift. Mike went to culinary school in Palm Beach and worked at resorts in Switzerland, France and the Caribbean, while his younger brother became a visual artist and restaurateur. The pair also own Uva 69 on Miami’s Upper East Side.
Start the day with scrambled eggs on a croissant or an open-face toast tartine with butter and strawberry marmalade. Hot sandwiches come on baguettes baked daily from frozen French dough and all meats are free-range and hormone-free. The El Fig layers Gorgonzola cheese, fig confit, toasted walnuts and honey, while the El Pollo brings grilled chicken, smoked Gouda and roasted tomato aioli. There’s also smoked salmon or albacore tuna with hard cooked eggs, greens and tomatoes on unheated bread.
Burgers include the El Español with a beef and chorizo patty topped with whipped goat cheese and roasted red pepper chutney, the La Tuna with a slab of seared tuna and sliced avocado and the Le Cajun with blackened sea bass and cilantro-lime aioli. Soups range from island-style pumpkin to corn bisque with basil oil. Guava and cheese bread pudding is the ultimate Cuban-inspired dessert.